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The History of the Marquise-Cut Diamond

by Elise Jewelry 29 Feb 2024
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The marquise diamond cut, also known as the football-shaped cut, the boat-shaped cut, the eye-shaped cut, or the navette, is relatively uncommon in the engagement ring market compared to other, more modern cuts.

Featuring 58 facets and an elongated elliptical shape with pointed ends, the marquise cut diamond has been in existence for centuries. While it may not enjoy the same level of popularity as cuts like the princess or round, its traditional and slender silhouette adds elegance to any ring finger.

History of the Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise cut has its origins in the 18th century, attributed to King Louis XV of France (1710-1774), who commissioned a jeweler to create a shape reminiscent of the lips of his mistress, Jean Antoinette Poisson, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. Over time, this cut evolved into the distinctive shape known today.

The term "marquise" is derived from a hereditary rank higher than a count but lower than a duke, with courtiers using marquise cut diamonds as a symbol of their rank. Additionally, these diamonds are often called "navette," which means "little ship" in French, owing to their boat-like shape.

Originally designed for diamonds, the marquise cut is now commonly utilized with other gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, and sapphires.

Tips When Buying A Marquise Cut Diamond

Marquise diamonds are suitable for various jewelry pieces, but they are most commonly chosen for engagement rings. Here are some key factors to consider when purchasing a marquise cut:

  • Finger Illusion: The elongated, slender shape of marquise cuts is renowned for creating the illusion of longer and more slender fingers.
  • Chip Protection: The pointed ends of marquise cuts are susceptible to chipping if not adequately protected by the setting. Ensure the corners are secured with protective prongs or claws, particularly opting for "V-end" or "V-tip" prongs for added security.
  • Symmetry Importance: Perfect alignment of the two points at the ends of a marquise diamond is essential. Even the slightest deviation in symmetry can significantly impact the overall appearance of the ring once it's set.
  • Color Preference: Given their vintage allure and unique shape, some buyers prefer marquise diamonds with a hint of color, such as those graded I-J, rather than completely colorless diamonds.
  • Beware of Bow Tie Effect: The narrow shape of marquise cuts can sometimes create a "bow tie" effect, resulting in a darker area in the center of the gem. While this is common in elongated fancy shapes, a well-cut diamond can mitigate this effect through its facet arrangement.

FAQ's

Why is the marquise diamond cut less common in engagement rings compared to other cuts?

The marquise cut, while elegant, is relatively uncommon in the engagement ring market due to its less modern appearance. It's often overshadowed by more popular cuts like the princess or round cuts.

What is the significance of the marquise cut's historical origins?

The marquise cut's history dates back to King Louis XV of France, who commissioned its creation. It was inspired by the lips of his mistress, adding a romantic and intriguing backstory to this unique cut.

How does the marquise cut contribute to the illusion of longer fingers?

The elongated, slender shape of the marquise cut visually elongates the finger when worn as a ring, creating the illusion of longer and more slender fingers.

What precautions should be taken to protect against chipping with a marquise cut diamond?

The pointed ends of marquise cuts are susceptible to chipping if not properly protected. It's essential to ensure the setting has secure prongs or claws, particularly opting for "V-end" or "V-tip" prongs for added protection.

Why is symmetry crucial when selecting a marquise cut diamond?

Perfect alignment of the two points at the ends of a marquise diamond is essential for aesthetic balance. Any deviation in symmetry can significantly impact the overall appearance of the set ring.

Why might some buyers prefer marquise diamonds with a hint of color?

Some buyers prefer marquise diamonds with a slight tint of color, such as those graded I-J, due to their vintage allure and unique shape, which complements the gem's character.

Conclusion

The marquise cut diamond, though historically rich and visually striking, remains less common in engagement rings compared to contemporary cuts. Its elongated shape creates the illusion of slender fingers, adding a unique touch to jewelry. Careful consideration of factors like symmetry and chip protection ensures a perfect choice. Despite its rarity, the marquise cut diamond promises timeless elegance for those seeking something distinctively beautiful.

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